Day Thirty Nine-God Bless Charles Schwab

Day 39- (90 Miles)- Thursday, July 26, 2007- Birch Run, MI to Port Huron, MI (596')

Ride Update: I have ridden 2,920 miles (91% of the total). I have 4 days/295 miles remaining.

Today I received a nice surprise from Eric Cramer, my financial advisor from Charles Schwab. Eric, an accomplished bicycle racer, knew just what to send. Thanks for the cookies Eric- you da man!!

(To Ron Lau: I have noticed a dramatic change in how I feel riding long distances. And it did begin to occur after 2-3 weeks, but in my case, after 4 weeks I noticed the biggest difference. Today's ride was nearly 90 miles and it was not a big deal at all. While I was training for the ride I would have needed a day to recover from a ride like today's. But I was a girly man then.)

On Monday we put Lake Michigan at our backs and pushed off to the east-in the direction of Lake Huron, so beginning our three day march across Michigan. Today that push finally paid off, as we cruised along Lake Shore Blvd in the city of Port Huron with Lake Huron and some pretty impressive "cottages" along it's western shore to our left. A couple of us rode through a small lakeside park and down to a public beach on Huron, where we were able see just why they call these the "Great Lakes". Might just as well been the Atlantic- these boys are mucho grande. (The picture of the lighthouse was taken from the Badger as we finished crossing Lake Michigan.)

I am still suffering from a nearly total electronic meltdown- my email stopped working about 4 days ago and the guys in New Delhi don't seem to have any answers- at least none that make sense to me. The Holiday Inn in Manitowoc seems to have permanently disposed of all of my chargers and cables that I managed to leave behind. I am powerless to do anything about either situation. Actually, I may take a cab to a Radio Shack this afternoon and try to replicate some of the battery/charger/cables that I lost.

I'm now back from Radio Shack and I did replace some, but not all of my cables. Still don't have a way to charge my camera, so I'll have to use it judiciously and hope I can find one. Also, I think I have solved my email problem, so I should be back in business.

The ride today was quite flat again and the weather was another sweetheart- temps mild, wind manageable, skies pretty much clear. The morning was foggy and humid, but we don't expect perfection. I started today's ride alone and after a few miles hopped on with Joel and Allison when they came by. Joel complained somewhat that I was riding too fast and I guess I dropped them some- I think Allison wasn't 100% today. At the first sag, Sarah and I left together as Bud, Daco and Cindy were pulling out. So by happen chance, the five of us ended up riding together. Now I have always thought that the three of them were a bit out of my league, but maybe they were holding back today. Whatever the reason, I was able to hang on with them for the next 60 miles- and actually enjoyed the ride.

Tomorrow will be interesting- we will ride, as a group, across the bridge into Canada. They tell us that they'll close the bridge for us- that's going to be cool. Following that, we'll spend the next three days in Ontario and then cross back into the US at Niagara Falls. After that, one day to Henrietta and then I get off the Peace Train and re-enter reality. Too bad.

Day Thirty Eight- The World is Flat

Day 38- (75 Miles)- Wednesday, July 25, 2007- Mt. Pleasant, MI to Birch Run, MI (635')

Ride Update: I have ridden 2,832 miles which is 88% of the total. I have 382 miles/5 days remaining.

In Tom Friedman's book, "The World is Flat" he talks about how the process off globalization is leveling the playing field between first world and second world countries, like India and China, allowing them to become serious players in global supply chains. When I say the world is flat, I mean that it's really flat. At least that's what I found today as we rode through central Michigan- there ain't a hill out there.

I find that in order for an area to be considered scenic, it's very tough to do that when things are flat. So, in my humble opinion, what we're dealing with here in good old central Michigan is an area that is the plain Jane of the ride across the US. Not butt ugly, but not much going for it either.

Today we covered about 75 miles and got a late start. I decided to accompany Gary today and tried to give him a hand easing back into riding. He bailed out yesterday after 30 miles and was diagnosed with some kind of asthma. Joel checked him out and wrote him a script for some kind of drug, which Gary took last night. He thought he was at about 80% today and he rode pretty well. We put the cruise control on a medium setting and really took our time, stopping for donuts in Alma, MI and again for sandwiches in some little burg at about 11:00AM. We stopped for water at about mile 62 and spent a half hour watching some ants deal with a WD-40 roadblock that Jim made. Wow- easily amused/distracted or what?

I still haven't recovered my chargers and cables, even though I called the hotel again. My friend Ralph recovered a lost article from the same hotel, so I know they can do it- but I don't think I talked to the same person and finding someone who gives a crap about solving somebody's problem is so hard to do.

Speaking of people who are incapable of doing the right thing- I am sure my email is hosed up agaim. I swear- when I get back I am changing email providers because HUGHES SUCKS.

Sorry to not have pictures again today- but that's the problem with losing those cables and not having a car to get new ones.

Daty Thirty Seven- Boogity Boogity

Day 37- (115 Miles)- Tuesday, July 24, 2007-Ludington, MI to Mt. Pleasant, MI (761')

Notice: I think my email is down and has been for a couple of days. I'm not getting any email, so if you're trying to reach me- so sorry. I'm going to shop for a new email provider when I get back on Earth. Bob.

Ride Update: I have ridden 2,787 miles (87% of the total). I have 457 miles and 6 days remaining. (A real pittance).

Today was our first riding day in Michigan and our re-entry into the Eastern Time Zone- in my view, the one true time zone. I know that others believe that their zones are THE CHOSEN ONE, but I'm tellin' ya- the good old EST is the best.

Anyway, the hassle factor yesterday was off the charts as it included some of my very Least Favorite Activities (LFA's). Those include: Waiting in Lines, Crowd Participation, Crappy Food Eating, Being Lost in a Dumpy City, Sitting in a Hot Room and Listening to Morons Talk. So after hours of doing these LFA's, I was ready to choke someone or at a minimum, something.

Today's wake up came at 5:00AM (or 4:00AM in CST, which experts generally agree is the second best time zone). It seemed like I had to go at 90 MPH, to get ready and by 6:30AM, I was loaded and ready to pounce on the pedals. I was in a mood to vent my hostility and to really put a beating on the bike. Starting out alone, I waited for someone interesting to come up and before long Rich and Sarah moseyed on by. I quickly fell in behind them and chatted up Rich for a while. By mile 15 or so I wanted to release additional energy and started apply a bit more pressure to the cranks. By the first sag at about mile 30, Rich had fallen back, but Sarah was ready to trade pulls with me, so off we went.

I pushed myself harder today than at any other time on this ride. Granted the conditions favored a fast pace- temps were very cool, skies overcast, and the hills were negligible. On top of that, we were, at times, pushed along by a bit of a tailwind. Still, there were rollers and we climbed about 2,500 feet in 115 miles, so it wasn't totally flat. But Sarah and I were clipping along at a very brisk pace- at times 20-22 MPH, through about mile 85 and our third sag, where we picked up Derek. Our pace continued, maybe even increased, once he joined us.

At mile 90, we hit an unexpected bit of road construction and decided to cowboy up and ride the gravel. The gravel was worse (looser and deeper) than the 6 mile stretch we'd ridden a week or so ago, but it was, mercifully, much shorter- only about a mile. Once we finished that, the rockin' and rollin' continued. Derek stopped at one point to take a shot of a beautiful old fieldstone church and Sarah and I rode on. He apparently felt slighted that we didn't wait and when he eventually caught us, he breezed on by and wouldn't let me catch him. I'd try, but the boy is strong and he'd just muscle down the road, keeping his distance from me, til I'd quit pushing and then he'd slow down. We played cat and mouse until about mile 105 or so, when he finally grinned and let me know he was done with the game and let me catch him. I bought his lunch and Max and Edna's deli/bakery in Mt. Pleasant. After lunch we rambled on to the Baymont Inn- our home for the next twelve hours.

Sarah was good company today and we talked about horses and farms and bird dogs and all such things. We also talked some about bicycle touring and hiking, which she's into. I fact, she talked about doing a 40 mile hike in a day, which struck me as measurably crazier than what we're doing- and I think she'd agree. She'd had a farm at one point in her life and had dressage and three day horses. She and her family had Brittanies and she knew a bit about field trialing and walking horses, so it was nice to not have to draw pictures to explain what that's all about.

I have had a fear since starting the ride that I was going to misplace my cables and by god, I think I did it. I had developed a very good routine for using and repacking the cables. However, I cannot find the cables and chargers for my camera, iPod and bike computer. Good news is that there are only six more days to ride, but for now, my Garmin computer is dead and I have will limited use of my camera and cell phone. Called the hotel that I think I left them and they can't find them- what a surprise. I may be able to replace the cell phone cable and borrow a Garmin charging cable, but charging the camera or iPod and uploading pics is over. Royally pisses me off.

Day Thirty Six- The Non Rest Day

Day 36- (15 miles)- Monday, July 23, 2007- Manitowoc, WI to Ludington, MI

It is 9:00Pm and I just walked into my hotel room. I left my hotel room in Manitowoc (Wisconsin's arm pit) at about 8:30 and have been moving ever since. This was billed as a rest day, and though it was not a day of physical exertion, there was virtually zero opportunity to do the wifely chores that one must do on a trip of this nature. Like wash the clothes, get the cash, clean the chain, and so on.

So the post will be brief today, I'll add pictures later IF I feel like it (yes, I'm in a bit of a pissy mood- and no I will not explain- it's none of your business- maybe later), and I will then try to salvage something of this non rest day.

The big entry on the to do list today was to get on the SS Badger and ride across Lake Michigan. That turned out to take all freaking day. It was the kind of crowd that you'd see at the state fair. Just a smidgeon above the county fair crowd, but not really a Disneyworld group. Maybe Pigeon Forge- yeah that's just about right. The ship could have been right out of Noah's Ark era, coal powered if you can believe that. Heavy duty steel ship, complete with a bingo parlour. Anyway, we finally got into Michigan, ate dinner, consumed our second ice cream dosage of the day and then rode about 5 miles to the hotel.

Before starting the Badger activities, we toured downtown Manitowoc and wandered into a submarine museum. Manitowoc was the site of a large sub shipyard during WW2 and the museum was very nice. Had a nice chat with a woman who's husband was stationed on the sub on display there. He's written an account of his missions while assigned to the sub and that was interesting.

I've had it- going to bed. May write more tomorrow, but I doubt it. We have a century ride tomorrow in a plus size- think it's 115 miles. Oh boy.

Day Thirty Five-Angels of Mercy

Day 35- (57 Miles)- Sunday, July 22, 2007- Fond du Lac, WI to Manitowoc, WI (595')

Ride Update: I have ridden 2,635 miles (82% of the total), climbed 80,492'. I have 572 miles/7 days left to go.


Today's ride was uneventful, pleasant enough and short- just 57 miles. The route took us through rolling hills and corn and dairy operations as we polished off what remained of eastern Wisconsin. At the end of the abbreviated day (and following a civilized 9:00AM start time) we were deposited in Manitowoc- on the western shores of Lake Michigan. We actually hit the lake shore about 10 miles south of town and skirted along the edge of the lake-still a ways in the distance.

The riders were anxious to get started this morning as there was an hour delay between the end of breakfast and load time. So by 9:00, the horses were ready to leave the barn and polish off the "junior" ride we had in front of us. The weather was a carbon copy of yesterday- mild temps, 90% sunshine, low humidity- just plain perfect.

Following a 300' climb at mile 5, the Millers and I did the rollers and then I noticed that Mike had ridden off and I decided to find him. After passing several riders and small groups I found that he was drafting Jim and Dotties tandem and with some considerable effort, I finally caught them. After hanging on behind Mike, I found out why it took an effort to get to them- these fools were storming- especially on the downhills. The tandem would crest a hill and then like a runaway dumptruck, it would accelerate downhill. I had to work to get the early jump going downhill and then had to put some effort into staying on their tail going downhill- but man we were scootin'.

After a rest stop, the Millers reformed with Joel, Allison, Gary and me and we proceeded to catch a tailwind, use it to our full advantage and to drop Gary, who was a) back among us, and b) sick. At the sag at mile 30, I suggested that we help Gary and with all in agreement, we slowed the motors down and the Angels of Mercy pulled him into Manitowoc. Gary declined our offer of Meals on Wheels.

Tomorrow, technically a rest day, is the end of Wisconsin, our ferry ride across Lake Michigan and our entry to Michigan. We'll ride about 7 miles and start late at that, but access to bike shops, laundry facilities and the like are nil. The ferry ride will be interesting, but I suspect I'll be bored to tears. The following day, the start of my final full leg, will be a long one- 117 miles and our last century. The climbing is over for me, so headwinds and heat are the only boogie men I need to worry about.

I continue to feel great- no health issues at this point and I am confident that, barring a mishap, this ride is in the bag.

Day Thirty Four- A Nice Saturday Ride

Day 34- (84 Miles)- Saturday, July 21, 2007- Wisconsin Dells, WI to Fond du Lac, WI

Ride Update: I've now ridden 2,588 miles (80% completed), climbed 79,182' and have 8 more riding days remaining.

Today's ride was a pretty one. Nothing breathtaking about it, but pretty decent roads, no climbs worth discussing. We were on rural county roads with decent shoulders and light traffic. There were several cutsey small towns like Packwaukee ( hey Wisconsin, you came up with one good town using the "aukee" ending- isn't that sufficient?), and Monticello. Monticello had a really cute falls- and they didn't try to oversell it like those people in Sioux Falls did either- and one of the busiest convenience store/gas stations I've ever seen. For chrissake, the line to the toilet was 20 people. Fortunately, there was a porta john out behind the store, but man, the smell was a doosey. The store had a pretty good donut selection and the smart riders doubled down on those bad boys.

The weather was right out of the Chamber of Commerce brochure again. Absolutely gorgeous day- high around 80, 95% sunny, light winds and no humidity at all. Man, somebody on this trip did something right. I have never seen a string of great weather days like this.

At lunch today, I was thinking about my ride today and the kind of physical condition that I've gotten into. Our pace today was varied- sometimes we'd poke along and other times we were sprinting uphill or to a town limit sign. What's cool is how rapidly I recover now from a serious output like that- just a minute to catch my breath and do it again. I have no muscle soreness and can pretty much just ride all day- easily 6 to 8 hours. We've ridden now for six days since our day off in Sioux Falls and have covered about 560 miles since Monday- an average of 93 miles a day. And I feel great.

Tomorrow will be a short day- I think under 60 miles and then we'll have a quasi-rest day and a ferry ride across Lake Michigan. That sets up my last full leg across Michigan and Ontario and into Niagara Falls. After that, one day into Henrietta and I get off the train. Good news/bad news.

Now I've been debating on whether to include this last entry, but since I know Mike Miller will beat me to it, I guess it can't be avoided. The Millers and I stopped for lunch at an Arby's today. There was a family seated behind us and Mike noticed that they had a wedding veil hung over one of the seats and was giggling like a third grader about what the story might be. Try as I might to stop him, he asked them what was going on. As I'm trying to get out of the store, he says "Hey Bob, look at this". The woman is standing next to him with a T-shirt that had been hand printed with these words, "I was engaged to a psychopath and all I got was this t-shirt". Turns out that she was supposed to have gotten married today, but she'd found out that he was a nut case and called it off. I decided that it would be fun to pose with her. Lot a laughs, she thought it was fun, Mike put it up on his web site. End of story. Honest. Really.

Day Thirty Three-Ridin' the Rails to Trails

Day 33- Friday, July 20, 2007- (92 Miles)- La Crosse, WI to Wisconsin Dells, WI (899')

Ride Stats: 2,452 miles ridden (77% completed), 76,592' climbed, 9 days/730 miles remaining.

The days are melting away and in a very short period of time I'll be sitting on my couch wondering what happened to June and July. In the meantime, when the alarm went off this morning at 5:00AM, I nearly jumped the fence and went AWOL. Did not want to ride. I felt OK, but the routine is starting to get a bit tedious. I'm sure you've all seen "Groundhog Day" starring Bill Murray- well I keep expecting to hear Sonny and Cher signing "I Got You Babe" every morning. This week has been a real grind for us as we've ridden 472 miles since Monday and thats an average of nearly 95 miles per day for five days in a row. While we didn't get our fourth consecutive century in today, you get the picture.

Today's ride was 92 miles long and the weather was beautiful (temps around 80, low humidity, blue skies) until about 2:00PM when the wind kicked up and about half the time it was running straight at us. We started the ride in very cool temps-low 50's- and clear skies and rolled over the farm country hills until about mile 30 when we dropped onto a very nice "Rails to Trails". For you non-riders this is a bike and running path that is a converted rail line. The surface was crushed limestone and it was in good condition. This surface is very ridable- not as nice as smooth asphalt- but it beats the hell out of some of the highways we've been on. The other benefits are that the grade rarely exceeds 3% and the path is usually shaded. So its a nice, albeit slow, way to cover some ground- about 30 miles in our case today.

Since trains don't do hills so well, they often are the beneficiaries of tunnels. We rode through three significant tunnels from .25 mile to .75 miles in length. We'd have to dismount and use flashlights to find our way thru the tunnels- thought my claustrophobia would turn me into a quivering mess, but I cowboyed up and walked on through. These tunnels were big enough for a single train- fairly wide, but really tall. The ceilings were dripping water continually and there were trenches on both sides of the path to channel the water out. They also had huge doors on the ends- for what reason I cannot say for sure, but I heard a local talking about how those doors used to be manned and opened when a train approached.

The local folks put on a sag for us at one of the depots still standing along the path. There was a guy named "Ben Bikin" dressed in period costume, riding a big wheeled bike than several riders got on and wheeled around. Theyy had a US map and invited us to stick a push pin in our hometowns. Got one dead centered on Toccoa, GA.


Our friend Gary's wife drove from their home in Madison to La Crosse last night. This morning she appeared at a road crossing on the trail at about mile 40 and we all stopped and had ice cream in various forms at a local sandwich shop. Gary had planned to ride a good bit further before heading home for a party. He got that far away look in his face as we were eating and I asked him if was planning to do what I would do in his place (bail out immediately) and he said, "Yeah, I think so". So Gary went AWOL and headed for civilization. I am very jealous. I don't think we'll ever see Gary again- man I miss him.